Leisure Pleasures At The Beaches of South Walton

by Kate Wilson
posted October 8, 2008

“We’ll treat you so many good ways, you’re bound to like one of them,” says Theresa Hamilton, of Resort Quest at the Beaches of South Walton. Ms. Hamilton is describing her resort management company’s services, but she could just as easily be describing the innumerable pleasures of this whole 26-mile stretch of dune-laced, sugar-white beaches.

Those pleasures include the expected golf courses, marinas, and restaurants, but after spending three nights in the area in early September, it’s the unexpected things that I can’t get out of my mind. The Beaches of South Walton (technically the stretch of shore between Destin and Panama City within Walton County), has a surprisingly different touch than most tourist beach hot spots.

Unlike surrounding areas, the Beaches of South Walton has almost no high rise buildings, chain restaurants, multi-screen movie theatres, gaudy night clubs, or go-kart tracks on every corner. Instead, the area offers a variety of resort communities built around the idea of New Urbanism – the notion that one should be able to find everything one needs – groceries, post office, restaurants, bars, churches, friends – all within walking distance. Because the area has been built up with these ideals in mind, out-of-towners get a unique beach vacation experience: the look and feel of small town community, but all the amenities that come with a luxurious vacation destination.

Better yet, I found that visiting the area in the fall made me appreciate the serenity that a beach town can offer. The beautiful white sands for which the area is famous were dotted with just enough other beach goers to make me feel like I had plenty of space, but was not isolated. Restaurants were quietly humming, but lines were non-existent — a relaxing contrast to summertime high season. The weather was still gorgeous, in the 80s every day, but summer’s oppressive heat and humidity were mercifully absent. And did I mention that rental rates are often much more affordable this time of year as well?

This is the kind of vacation spot that lends itself to serendipitous, kind of laid-back exploring where you just can’t wait to see what’s around the next corner. Since a wide, well-maintained bike path runs for 18.6 miles along the shore – hugging Highway 30A through the Beaches of South Walton, and since most of the communities in the area were designed for pedestrians and bikers, you can feel free to meander at a slower pace.

For art lovers, there are a surprising number of interesting galleries, each with its own particular focus. My favorite was Big Mama’s Hula Gallery, bursting with a collection of exuberant local art, from funky jewelry to large glass mosaics, the gallery feels both homey and friendly, intimately connected to its art and the artists. Beyond Big Mama’s, the area boasts a great mix of singular shops, larger open-air shopping complexes, and outlets. Rosemary Beach’s downtown is the perfect example of a quaint shopping area that offers a little bit of everything in a variety of locally owned storefronts. For golfers, almost every resort offers numerous packages. Sandestin, in particular, is known for its four beautiful courses and a wide variety of packages to make the most of the links.

Another intriguing aspect of Beaches of South Walton was the effort the community is making to preserve the natural landscape. I loved my ranger-led tour of Topsail Hill State Preserve, where I learned about the unique locally famous sand dunes. WaterSound Beach is also known for its preservation efforts, as a non-government-run park that works with the community and the state parks to create a natural habitat for wildlife. I was especially impressed to learn how much work has been done to ensure that the local wildlife, everything from sea turtles and beach mice, have a place where they are protected and can thrive.

One of my favorite things about this visit was that while the area has more than enough attractions to keep me busy, it was also a deeply relaxing getaway. True, at any moment I was just seconds away from a well-manicured resort spa, a drink under a colorful cabana, intriguing shopping, or a casually sophisticated restaurant offering all kinds of locally grown — and freshly-caught – food. But the beaches along this coast are meant to be walked on — for literally miles on end. With the dunes on one side to protect, and the usually-flat Gulf of Mexico in front of me, all I really wanted to do was set up my beach towel, open my book, lather on sunscreen, and rest.

Vacations these days are often more about doing and going than about resting and relaxing. Finding a place that encouraged me to actually chill out, explore at a leisurely pace, and appreciate the lulling sounds of the sea was pure heaven. If this is the New Urbanism, I’ve found where I belong.

Where to Stay:

Alys Beach – The newest community in the area, Alys Beach is luxury combined with sustainability. Though not nearly complete, the individualized homes, each with a distinctive courtyard, gives a feeling of Mediterranean Europe. Make sure to block out quite a bit of time to lay by the pool – you’ll feel like you are in paradise.

Resort Quest – Resort Quest offers a variety of options for every type of traveler. From the huge homes that can comfortably hold 30 people to the fully-equipped units at the Dunes of Seagrove, Resort Quest caters to all customers.

Rosemary Beach – Elegant town homes and carriage houses set the tone for this community. Pedestrian walkways are the main mode of passage through the town, giving it a real community feel.

Sandestin – The quintessential resort area, Sandestin offers every type of vacation home that one could ask for. While Sandestin caters to couples and families alike, it is ideal for bringing the kids to participate in the numerous activities that are constantly going on.

Seaside – The original experiment in New Urbanism, Seaside oozes with beach charm. The homes are all built in a traditional beach bungalow way (though some are much larger than actual bungalows). Though Seaside offers the same amenities that most resorts offer, you feel like you are actually in a community, rather than a resort, while here.

Watercolor – If you are looking for luxury overlooking the ocean, check out Watercolor’s Inn and Resort. Their inclusive package – that includes such things as breakfast, bikes, and kayaks, is perfect for a couple’s getaway weekend.

Where to Eat:

Bud and Alleys – This yummy hole in the wall is casual – a perfect place to grab a sandwich or sit down for something slightly nicer. Check out their sweet potato fries – they are huge and delicious.

Cafe 30A – For a fancier dinner, you must try Cafe 30A. With exceptional service and a great menu, it is a must-try for a special occasion. Their crab cakes are to die for.

Fish Out of Water – Watercolor’s chic restaurant located on the second floor of their inn is the perfect place to have an elegant, fine dining experience. Start with the tuna tartar as your appetizer and end with the onyx chocolate molten cake.

Solaris Dinner Cruise – The Solaris dinner cruise is a perfect place to take a date for a fancy night out. The chefs provide you with a feast, and the wines are excellently paired with each course.

Smiling Fish – Quick, easy, and affordable, particularly at lunch, Smiling Fish offers large portions of great food. Try the calamari salad. You won’t be able to eat it all, but you’ll try.